![]() ![]() You can also improve the speed of your parallax shader by scaling down your normal, specular, and height maps in a 2D image manipulation program such as GIMP of Photoshop because the parallax effect is doing some of the work. But if your details are meant to stick out further (up to about 5 or 6 inches) then you may want to consider parallax occlusion. ![]() In that case you can get away with using the base or the classic parallax. In the case of the bricks you're looking at something like an inch from the surface. Noob tips: I think a good general rule of thumb for using parallax is to think in terms of how far your texture details are meant to stick out. POM is awesome, but for floors you may also consider the pixel depth offset shader or the parallax + splat shader. I've done what I can to reduce this problem and you can get away with using it on floors so long as you are not trying to get extreme parallax depth out of it. Secondly, parallax sort of "sinks in" to the texture, so your depth is slightly off, thus when you use this texture on the ground and then put objects on it, you get a slight sense that things are always floating a bit. I've tried this on boulders and such and there is always a problem somewhere at the grazing angles (see below at the parallax occlusion shader). It works best on a flat plane or a slightly curved surface. The first problem you run into is that it has trouble with the curve. However, there are a few limitations to parallax. It's a lot of fun trying different textures with it, and if I could I'd use it for everything. All you really need is a heightmap and a dream. And it requires only the bare minimum number of vertices to work. The less vertices on a mesh the better, because parallax doesn't actually add any geometric information. Parallax is a cheap way to add a lot of 3D details to any scene.
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